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Below is a transcript from the video “How to Store Carrots Long Term” from CNG member Kat the Farmer.  For the full instructional experience, check out her video here and make sure to sign up for Kat’s newsletter on her website!

I’m Kat the Farmer, and I’m going to tell you how to store carrots for long term use.  We’re going to dive into all those little details that make a really big difference when it comes to shelf life– whether its harvesting, washing, packing, temperature, humidity– all the gritty details that go into that.  

These principles transfer to all sorts of root crops– beets, turnips, rutabaga, daikon– you can use these principles for those crops, too.

There are a few considerations you can make before its time to harvest to ensure the best storage quality. You’re gonna be looking in your seed catalog for varieties marked for good storage quality.  In my case for carrots, it’s Bolero.  It’s the king of storage carrot selections.

That goes for other storage crops, too.  Certain radishes are designed for storage while others are not.  

As far as planting-timing goes with carrots, I try to get my big fall planting of carrots planted so that at maturity, they are at risk of getting frosted.  I’m looking at that first frost date in my area and trying to plan my planting date just so that when they are mature, they have the opportunity to get frosted a couple of times and put some sugar down into those roots.  

Chances are if you’re watching this video, you’ve probably had a mixed history of storing carrots successfully.  So let’s dive into the considerations during the actual harvest time that you’ll need to keep in mind.

When I’m out in the field pulling the carrots, I like to top them in the field (cutting the greens off in the field).  And when I’m doing that, I’m taking extra consideration to cut the greens off at just the right point so that its sprouting ability is inhibited but I’m not cutting so far down that it looks mutilated.  I’m also sorting for quality as I go, so I’m setting aside the ones that are worm eaten or are shaped like dancing people.  I can do a further grading for size when I get back to the pack house.

As you’re going through your harvest, you may accidentally break some of your carrots either because they won’t pull out or you stab them with your spade.  Those carrots will store just fine.  That won’t compromise the storage ability of the carrot but you might want to cull them out anyway just cause they’re less marketable.  Sell them to someone who wants juice or just make pickles for your own pantry (or something like that).  

During harvest you’re not just cutting off the tops, you’re also trimming the root hairs.  This is only an important step for long term storage.  If you’re gonna use or sell your carrots within the month, this step makes no sense.  But those little root hairs that extend down into the soil of the tap root are gonna be the first thing that rot in your storage bin or bag.  They turn to jelly or mush – then they can mush up the whole bag – and then you have to wash your carrots one more time before you have to use them in the springtime.  Trimming the root hairs is that extra step for the really extended shelf life.

After harvest, sorting and trimming, you’re going to wash your carrots.  You’re going to get them super clean and the easiest way to do that is to clean them right away.  Carrots that get harvested dirty and stored for a little bit – you might stain the carrots with the soil and the soil kind of crusts on there and it’s harder to get off.  You can get them really clean by washing them the same day that you harvest. And you’re not only washing them but you’re also going to need to dry them.  All of this should take place in a shady area.  

You’re gonna want to see the roots go from shiny and wet to sort of a matte color or a matte texture on about 80% of that carrot surface.  Then you know it’s safe to put that carrot into a bag and get it into storage. 

If you are patient and you go through that drying step– whether that step happens out in the open air in the shade or in your breezy walk-in cooler, that eliminates the need to have ventilation in your storage bin or perforation on your storage bag.  You can use a solid tote or a solid bag for that long term storage.

My favorite bag size for storing root crops holds 12 pounds of carrots.  It’s 14×20 inches and once I get them all packed, I’ll put them in the walk-in cooler at 35 degrees to 40 degrees or so, and they live in there for long term storage throughout the winter… and well into springtime.

Here on my farm, I’m using a CoolBot in an insulated trailer as my walk-in cooler.  As the carrots are stored over winter, I get a little nervous about the outside temperatures coming in and penetrating the cooler… so what I do is set up a heater and a Inkbird controller to stop the cold from coming in.  Anytime it’s less than 30 degrees outside I want to have that set up and I just have that set up till springtime to prevent the carrots from freezing in storage because that would ruin the quality.  Cracking on the carrots is a result of that – so that’s one extra step you can take to avoid freezing your carrots.  

The end result of taking all these steps to store your carrots is beautiful sweet carrots that stay good until springtime. 

Actually, it’s mid-June when we’re filming this video and I’ve been using these carrots in my prepared salad kits all spring long!  It’s been so great to have that as an addition.  I really think that if farmers and gardeners can learn how to store food, they can really provide more year round access to local food for their community of eaters so thank you for watching and happy growing!

Updates to Apiary Standards for CNG Beekeepers

We recently made some updates to the CNG Apiary Standards to ensure they reflect current best practices for natural beekeeping. These changes were made in close consultation with, and on the recommendation of, our Apiary Advisory Council. We are proud to be affiliated with these experienced beekeepers and grateful for their deep well of knowledge. Their input ensures our standards remain up-to-date, taking into account the latest research, and the development of new products. They’ve also helped us provide clearer guidance when we discover practices that weren’t fully addressed in earlier versions of the standards.

The more substantial changes are noted below. For the curious who like nitty gritty details, all the updates including the more minor ones, are here.

 

Introduction

Added: “CNG standards require that you follow federal, state, and local regulations for use of beekeeping treatments and products. Note that there are beekeeping products that have been approved in some but not all states.”

 

Supplemental Feeding

Added to Prohibited: “raw sugar” (It contains solids that are difficult for the bees to digest.)

 

Treatment of Varroa Mites

Added to Required: “The use of treatments must be in accord with product labels.” (Misuse leads to resistance.)

Added to Recommended: “Use of the Honeybee Health Coalition Varroa Management Decision Tool

 

Allowed and Prohibited Substances (Appendix I)

Added to Prohibited: “Oxalic Acid that is not specifically formulated and approved for apiary applications (such as wood bleach)”

 

We have posted the complete, updated CNG Apiary Standards on our website, as we do with all our certification programs. CNG is committed to  transparency and running programs with integrity. Rest assured there’s a very specific – and verified – meaning behind the Certified Naturally Grown label. CNG members commit to high standards and an annual review to confirm their practices actually meet them.  Our robust  peer-review process is a lot more meaningful than simply printing “all natural” on some food packaging!

Curious about certification? Learn why folks join CNG.

 

This text was written by Mandy + Steve O’ Shea of 3 Porch Farms.  It is an excerpt from their June 12th blog post: “Verdant Sweepstakes.”  Head over to 3 Porch Farms for flower growing tips and tricks from this Georgia flower farm!

We are busy planting thousands of dahlias right now.  We’ll be planting them all through June. We stagger the planting so we can have a succession at harvest.  It’s important for farmers to succession plant a lot of crops so that they don’t get a huge harvest at one time.  That used to be the mistake of a lot of beginning farmers (maybe that’s different now with greater access to information).  You’d see them at market one week with a full booth overflowing with beautiful produce or flowers.  Then the next 3 weeks, they’d have almost nothing.  The result is that customers think you’re unreliable and start shopping elsewhere, and on the week you had a large bounty, you weren’t able to sell all of it, so you either gave a bunch away or lost it to compost.  You ended up working your tail off, only to spend more in expenses than you made by selling your bumper crop.  A painful lesson to learn.  Succession planting becomes a valuable technique to help you have a more steady and reliable harvest that both you and your customers can depend on from one week to the next.

   For folks in cooler climates wondering why we plant dahlias so late, it’s an approach we developed after years of failed crops due to intensely hot and humid summers that devastated our dahlia fields.  The late planting sidesteps the exhaustive stress that our southern summers exert onto dahlia plants and allow us to have a healthy and bountiful fall harvest.  It’s incredibly effective.  You can find more info on our dahlia care page

______________________

From 3 Porch Farm’s June 2023 blog:

[June] is the ideal time for southern growers to plant. I know it’s not what the textbooks say, but textbooks weren’t written about growing dahlias in the south.  Overwintered, or early spring planted dahlias become huge and exciting for a month or two, give you some very early blooms, and then turn into a jumanji sized, heat stressed,  insect hatchery.  If you want to propagate thrips and Japanese beetles, then plant early in the south.  In our experience, around 90% of your blooms will be ruined for the rest of the summer and all through Fall.  The 10% that aren’t destroyed will be subpar.

Also of note if you grow southern dahlias (or any flowers really) and are near a hay field…plant a hedgerow.  Thrips love dahlias, but they love grasses even more.  When hayfields are cut, millions of thrips are displaced.  Those displaced thrips catch a breeze and float on over to whatever gardens and farms are nearby and settle in on the flowers. We have a 100 acres of hay on 3 sides of us.  We do have a 15 foot wall of a mix of evergreens, flowering shrubs and vines on 3 sides of us as well.  It makes a big difference.  Thrips are lazy flyers.  They aren’t rising like a phoenix from the ashes, but more like dog paddling until the breeze carries them somewhere.  If you stop the breeze, you stop the incursion.  If you intend to spray them with your organic or even not so organic insecticides, you’ll still be disappointed.  They breed like crazy and have different stages of development that live in the soil, or in the green tissue of the plant.  Even the adults that live in the flowers hide deep in the petals to where sprays can’t hurt them.  But assuming you nuked them all, the next generation would just turn up the following week.  Your only recourse is timing of planting.

Read more about all phases of Dahlia growing – from spring through fall- at 3 Porch Farm’s collection of blogs on Dahlias

This post was written by Emma Reigel and edited by CNG from selections of Gowin Valley Farms monthly Newsletter. 

For centuries, morels have been utilized in traditional medicine and valued for their health benefits.  Many studies have confirmed their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities, along with their ability to boost the immune system.  Despite their growing financial impact and high demand, morels are mainly obtained through wild harvesting and are known as a superfood and flavor enhancer.  These mushrooms are some of the most prized foragable fungi.  The cream of the crop, per se.

Various species of morels are also very common in the United States, particularly in Virginia, Kentucky and Michigan.  You may find them under names such as “Dry Land Fish” or “Hickory Chickens,” which originate from the way they look and the way they are prepared.

The Benefits of Morel Mushrooms:

Nutrient Dense:

Morels are rich in protein + fiber and low in fat.  They contain Vitamin D + B and high levels of iron, phosphorous, and potassium.

Immune Boost:

Morels enhance immune function and can reduce inflammation, thanks to their polysaccharide content.

High Anti-Oxidents:

Morels contain abundant antioxidants which aid in combating oxidative stress, potentially reducing the risk of chronic ailments like heart disease and cancer.

Source of Vitamin D:

Morels are among the few foods that provide a significant amount of Vitamin D which is beneficial for bone health.

Liver Health:

The potent antioxidant properties of novel mushrooms can contribute to liver health and aid in protecting liver cells from damage caused by oxidative stress.

Morel Morphology & ID:

The Morchellaceae family uncludes true morels (members of the genus Morchella), the verpas (in the genus Verpa) and the cup fungi in the genus Disciotis.  There are undoubtedly more North American morels to be discovered, but unfortunately, the species can’t always be identified by looking at their physical features.  Young M. Diminutiva are yellowish with bald flat ridges and dark grey pits.  As they age, the ridges and pits equalize in color, becoming yellow to brownish yellow.  The equal, hollow stipe can be up to 7cm and is attached to the cap directly with little to no overhang.  The stem is generally longer and skinnier than other Marcella species.  M. Americana is a commonly harvested spring mushroom & ranges in color from grey to whitish to yellow.  The fruiting body can range from 5-22 cm tall.  The spongelike head is egg-shaped, oval to conical, or pine cone shaped with pits and ridges that are primarily vertically arranged.  On all forms, the ridges are paler than the pits.  The hollow whitish stipe can be enlarged toward the base, attached to the cap without a notable overhang or rim. Morchella Angusticeps has a fruiting body up to 18 cm tall.  The sponge-like head can differ in shape but is usually elongated and pointed.  The head has elongated and irregular pits with ridges that darken with age.  The young black morel may appear almost white when covered by leaf debris, but the aged black morel will have brownish pits and dark ridges.  The hollow, whitish stipe is attached to the head with a slight overhang or rim.  More DNA Sequencing is needed to learn more about morel varieties.

Morel Lookalikes:

Verpa bohemica, known for their wrinkled thimble cap, share similarities with morels.  However, they can be easily distinguished. Verpas have folds on the cap.  Additionally, the star of the half-free morel attaches halfway up the cap.  This leaves half of the cap hanging free like a skirt.  To differentiate, compare the sectioned Verpa bohemica with the stalk attached to the bottom of the top of the cap to the sectioned Morchella punctipes with the stalk attached halfway up the cap.  It’s important to note that Verpas are slightly poisonous and are not permitted for collection and sale in certain states.

Harvesting Tips:

When harvesting, morels should be cut with a knife near the surface of the soil.  When the mushrooms are cleaned as they are harvested, it helps keep the dirt out of the pits of the morels previously gathered.  As with most fungi, morels should be stored in paper bags or waxed paper and put in a cool dry place soon after harvesting.  Do not store in an airtight plastic bag or container; they will last longer if kept from drying out, and allowed to breathe.  Be mindful or morel lookalikes who can be toxic and deathly and dangerous to ingest.  When cooking morels, you must THOROUGHLY cook them.  We pre-cook our morels, then cook again in our food recipes to ensure they’re WELL cooked.

Emma Reigel co-founded her female-owned mushroom farm, Gowin Valley Farms, at age 26.  Receiving a BA from Emory University and her MSC in Marketing from Clemson University, Emma learned how to create strategic partnerships with universities to harness her farm as a means to aid in institutional universities conducting on-farm studies and creating research based-internships.  Emma guest lectures at local universities for mycology lab classes and speaks at mycological conferences across the Southeast. Sign up for her monthly newsletter for loads of seasonal mushroom knowledge and recipes!

Inspecting other farms is arguably the most unique part of being a CNG farmer. The opportunity to walk around a fellow grower’s farm, talk shop, and share tips is what many CNG members appreciate most about their certification. We know that peer review inspections provide amazing connection opportunities and are a robust method for verifying standards, but how can we ensure that we’re providing the best inspection possible? We’ll give you a hint: it’s all about HATS!

Peer Review Class

Back in the early, strange days of the pandemic, CNG had to get creative with the inspection process and started up a system for remote observed inspections (ROIs) on Zoom. The observers loved the opportunity to watch a real inspection and found the experience fun and educational. We quickly realized that if we were going to offer these ROIs to our membership as educational opportunities, we should provide some extra support to the brave farmers taking on these remote inspections. Out of this need came the Senior Inspector (SI) program and the Peer Review Class. Initially only offered to folks hoping to become SIs (the only CNG farmers certified to conduct remote inspections), we soon expanded the Peer Review Class to the entire CNG membership. Close to 100 CNG farmers (and even some extension agents) have taken the class so far!

The Peer Review Class is a two hour, experiential class, helping farmers practice the inspection skills necessary to conduct an educational and robust CNG inspection through roleplaying and practical scenarios. Though standards invariably come up throughout the class, the curriculum is centered around, not standards clarification, but the five roles that every great inspector plays thoughout an inspection, lovingly referred to as the hats.

Curious? Consider signing up to take the Peer Review Class, offered only twice per year, in April and October. Visit the Events page to sign up and we’ll see you in class!

The Five Hats

Guide

The role of the Guide is to keep the inspection on track, both topically and temporally. The inspector should agree on an agenda with the farmer beforehand and appropriately manage time throughout the inspection. Guides drive the conversation and agenda, redirecting when necessary. The Guide’s role is to manage the time and keep the conversation focused to ensure all needed verification occurs within a reasonable time frame. We’re trying to avoid the inspection scenarios where two farmers sit around chatting about whatever and then fly through the inspection paperwork in 10 minutes at the end. (We know none of YOU have ever done that). As we like to say in class, Guides are officially empowered to steer the ship!

Educator

The Educator’s job is to clarify for the farmer receiving the inspection (and any observers) the specific standards that are relevant throughout the inspection, when it might not otherwise be clear. Taking time to pause and explain CNG standards (or, better yet, empower the farmer to do so), can help solidify understanding of the standards and how they relate to the operation. If observers are present, the Educator can invite their questions and feedback too. Educators make the inspection a learning experience for everyone: the farmer and the observers, ensuring that everyone walks away with a better understanding of CNG standards.

Detective

Wearing the Detective hat is usually the most obvious of the five inspection roles (these are inspections after all). It’s the Detective’s job to ask probing, open-ended questions and appropriate followup questions. It’s crucial to focus on common misunderstandings and take extra time to verify that standards are being met. Once the Detective has gathered the information, they can determine if a corrective action is necessary (or provide CNG with the information to do so). Sometimes the farmer’s first answer doesn’t provide enough information to determine if they’re meeting CNG standards. Detectives are always ready to dig deeper. (Think Inspector Gadget with a sunhat and Carhartts). 

Mentor

As a Mentor, inspectors take it from where the Detective left off. The Detective determines that a corrective action is necessary, then, donning the Mentor hat, the inspector respectfully explains the need for an adjustment in practices. Once the farmer understands the issue, the Mentor and the farmer work together to make a plan to address the noncompliance. Inspections should be a learning experience and a noncompliance is often a great opportunity for growth. The best Mentors understand and foster the spirit of collaboration by working with the farmer to make a plan. Note that the Mentor’s job is not to determine the consequences for a noncompliance; CNG staff will follow up with the farmer post-inspection. 

Reporter

The Reporter hat was a late addition to the Peer Review Class curriculum and came as a response to students’ concerns about consequences and enforcement. An inspector’s main goal is to gather information and provide an illustrative picture of both the farmer’s operation and decision making. Reporters record their observations carefully so that CNG can move forward with additional next steps or interventions if necessary. CNG staff review each inspection report before finalizing a farm’s certification for the year and these reports provide us with invaluable information. What standards have not been met? How have a farm’s buffer zones or planting stock sources changed? Are there new pest or disease management practices in place in response to a more volatile climate? Reporters are our eyes on the ground, but they are not enforcers. Report what you see then hand it off to CNG staff to take the next steps! Stellar Reporters always promptly send in the inspection paperwork so they don’t hold up the farmer’s certification. 

Inspection Season

With all this Hat talk you’re probably thinking about your next inspection. That’s great! Inspections must be done during the growing season, and annually. To make life easier for you and your peer-reviewer, aim to get it scheduled early in your season if possible, so you’re not scrambling during peak harvest time. Even if your inspection is not due til later in the year, get it done when it fits best into your schedule. Then you’ll be ahead of the game this year and for years to come!

And, to support your lofty early inspection goals, we’ve got newly revamped Produce Inspection Reports, helpful inspection tips, and a fun film featuring CNG farmers, What to Expect When You’re Inspecting.

All members are expected to sign up for a Peer Review Class. The two classes offered in 2024 will be on April 10 and October 21. You’ll get a chance to practice all the Hats alongside fellow CNG farmers from all over North America—it’s super fun AND informative!

We want to give a big shout out to Janet Aardema of Broadfork Farm for helping us develop the curriculum for the Peer Review Class. We’d also like to thank Clay Brady of Foster Brady Farm for jumping in as a class instructor and providing invaluable course feedback. Much gratitude as well to all of the Senior Inspectors out there who were the gracious guinea pigs in the early days of this class. Y’all are the best!

Farms choose CNG certification for all kinds of reasons. Some are required to have certification to sell at their farmers market or food coop, others love the peer review inspection system, while plenty are just tired of the confusing elevator speech to customers explaining their growing practices: “I can’t say that I’m organic, but I follow organic practices.” Despite each farmer’s motivation for joining CNG, all want to verify their practices without breaking the bank or adding hours of paperwork to their already tight farm schedules.

I enjoy being CNG because it provides accountability to my CSA members and market customers for my growing practices. I appreciate the peer review system because I feel connected to a community of small-scale, sustainable farmers across the country.

— Liz Visser, Blandford Nature Center Farm

Early spring is application season at CNG and now is a great time to apply! Intimidated about the process? We’ve got your back. Applying for certification is not as scary as you might think. Read on for “Application 101” to make sure you’re prepared and empowered to get that application in this spring!

Check Out the Standards

First, it’s always best take a look at the standards and make sure that CNG seems like a good fit for your farm. CNG has five certification types: Produce & Flowers, Mushrooms, Livestock, Apiary, and Aquaponics. Since Produce & Flowers is by far our most popular certification type, we’ll focus on that program, but the process is the same across the board and folks interested in applying for a program other than Produce & Flowers can start here.
While you can certainly read through the CNG Produce Standards, checking out the FAQs and filtering by your operation type may be quicker and more helpful. When reviewing the standards, you want to determine if your practices mostly align with those you see outlined. If there are any standards that seem especially confusing or you’re unsure if your operation is a good fit, don’t hesitate to reach out to CNG, we’re happy to help! 
Another great way to prepare is to preview the application. This allows you to see every question before you begin the process. Keep in mind that all possible questions appear on the application preview so you will see questions that may not pertain to your operation and will be filtered out once you’re filling out the actual application (i.e. questions for maple or microgreens producers only).

For even more info about the CNG program you’re interested in, visit the certification homepages. These are landing pages for all five certification types that link to tons of useful info, forms, and resources relevant to each program. From the CNG website homepage these pages can be found by hovering over the “Certification” heading in the top menu and clicking your desired certification type.

Still need some convincing? Watch a real CNG Inspection in action in our 10 minute film, What to Expect When Your Inspecting. Or, if you’re more of an auditory learner, give our About CNG Webinar a listen for info on the certification process, perks, and marketing tips.

Application Prep

Once you’ve checked out the standards and determined that CNG is right for you, it’s helpful to make a few lists that will help you when you’re filling out the application.

Farm Inputs

Make a list of your farm inputs. The application will ask what fertility, pest, disease, and weed management inputs you use on your farm. If you can, it’s great to know the full product name, manufacturer, and OMRI-status (if applicable) of each input. Don’t worry if you don’t have everything on hand right away or are not sure of the manufacturer of a certain input, just do the best you can to list your inputs and the certification specialist can follow up with you on any missing information once you’ve submitted your application.

Not applying for Produce & Flowers? Mushroom growers, make a list of your spawn and substrate suppliers. Livestock producers, a feed suppliers list will be helpful. Beekeepers, you’ll want to make an input list too.

Seed Sources

Make a list of what suppliers you source your seed from, including cash crop seed, cover crop seed, garlic, seed potatoes, sweet potato slips, flower bulbs, corms, tubers, etc. and other planting stock. If you purchase annual or perennial transplants, make note of those suppliers too.

Apply!

Once you’re ready to apply, give yourself 30-40 minutes to sit at the computer (a little longer if you haven’t compiled your input and planting stock lists yet) and get started! You’ll find links to the application in several locations across the site: on the certification pages mentioned above or find the orange APPLY! button in the “Certification” top menu, under “Get Certified.”

If you haven’t set up a CNG account, make sure to do that before you start your application by clicking Log In and then Register for a New Account.

As you’re filling out the application, do the best you can to provide an accurate picture of your operation, but don’t stress too much if a question is confusing or you feel like you didn’t explain a practice very well. The application review period is designed to clear these things up, so just do your best.

If you need to step away from the computer in the middle of your application session, make sure to hit “Save & Continue.” This feature allows you to return to your application at a later time, right where you left off. You’ll receive a “continue link” by email from the CNG site to use whenever you’re ready to finish your application. Please make sure to use the “Save and Continue” option if you’re not able to finish applying in one sitting so you don’t have to start over!

Folks who would prefer to mail in a paper application can request one by contacting CNG, but keep in mind that paper application processing does take longer.

Application Review

Once you’ve hit “Submit” your application is officially in, woo hoo! You’ll receive an email from the Certification Specialist within 10 days to begin the application review process. (If you submit your application before the April 1st Spring Application Deadline, you’ll receive a reply within a week and be certified for spring)!

In the initial email from the Certification Specialist, they’ll ask follow up questions, clarify standards and request missing information. If possible, reply in a timely manner and provide the requested clarifications. As you provide additional information in your email replies, the Certification Specialist will update your application accordingly. This ensures that your application, which will be publicly available once you’re fully certified, is a complete and accurate representation of your farm.

As long as you’ve provided the additional information requested by the Certification Specialist and your practices, inputs, and sources are inline with CNG standards, your application will be Accepted!

Accepted and Beyond

Once your application is accepted, you’ll be able to complete the annual requirements and then become officially Certified Naturally Grown!

  1. Pay your membership dues — We recommend annual dues of $300-$350, with minimum dues of $250. You determine the amount that’s right for your operation or apply for the Grassroots or Equity Funds for financial assistance.
  2. Sign and submit your declaration — Your signature on the Declaration indicates you understand and accept the terms of participating in the CNG program.
  3. Schedule and receive a peer review inspection — Inspections must be done during the growing season and according to the Inspection Guidelines and Forms.

Please visit the Annual Requirements page or contact CNG below for assistance with these certification steps.

Whether you are still figuring out if certification is right for you, you’re halfway through your application, or you’re trying to schedule your first inspection, CNG is here for you! We are happy to help, regardless of where you are in the process, so reach out!

Our goal is to provide a practical certification that balances high standards and robust verification with minimal paperwork, reasonable costs, and tons of farmer support. Can’t wait to hear from you!

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This article was originally written by Erin France for Flagpole.com

Where you’ll go for seeds likely will depend on what you’re looking for and how much money you can budget for your garden this year. If you’re just picking up one or two packets, shopping in a store is fine. Otherwise, you’ll likely get more interesting seeds by shopping online.

My farm products are certified naturally grown, and according to the certification, I must purchase organic seed unless I cannot find an organic option at three other businesses. Organic seeds are pricier, but cost isn’t something I can use as a reason to not purchase organic. If you’re interested in growing organic seeds, be prepared to pay a higher price.

While you’ll likely find GMOs (genetically modified organisms) in your fast food meal, you’re not likely to find them in a seed packet. Genetically engineered seeds are almost entirely geared toward commercial conventional agriculture like corn and soybeans. However, you might want to look for and avoid any “treated” seeds. Treated seeds are more available to the home gardener, and come with a chemical coating of pesticides or fungicides. It seems wasteful to me to start covering your home-grown food in any chemicals when it’s not even germinated yet.

Finding the Cheapest Seeds

One of my perennial favorite seed purveyors, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, touts a collection of seeds made for the heat and humidity of Northeast Georgia. There are plenty of options for tomatoes, okra and lettuce. The company also employs small farms—including some in Georgia—to grow and harvest seeds for them. This is a great way to buy worthwhile inexpensive seed stock (including organic) and support small farms at the same time.

I have not purchased seeds from MI Gardener, a gardening YouTuber who now also sells seeds. If you’re just looking for a wide selection at rock-bottom prices, this is the place to go. Most seed packets are just $2, making a big garden more affordable for folks with a strict budget.

Speciality Flavors

Kitazawa Seed Co. has a great collection of Asian greens, gourds and everything in between, with a focus on Japanese vegetables. The business also boasts Indian and African produce not found in many grocery stores. As someone who loves food from around the world, but doesn’t always know where to start, I’ve purchased a few of their seed bundles. This year, they have offerings such as a “Juicing Garden,” the “Ugly Vegetables Garden” and the “Indian Cuisine Garden.” These packets can be a great way to get started on a new cooking habit or bolster the one you already have.

I don’t buy from Seeds From Italy, but I know farmers who swear by them. The germination rates, especially for finicky types like tender greens, prove they’re worth the extra money. If you love Italian food or really fancy greens, this could be the right catalog for you.

Healthy Hybrids and Organic Options

High Mowing Organic Seeds has a great selection of winter veggies. The problem, at least for Georgians, is High Mowing’s location in Vermont. If the description of a tomato reads as “does well in heat and high humidity,” that could mean something different for the Vermonter writing it than the Georgian reading it. I worked on a farm in Vermont for three months and was shocked at the public service radio announcement reminding people to stay hydrated at 85 degrees. At 85 degrees, y’all. That being said, their winter vegetables can stand up to any wimpy cold weather the South gets.

Many farmers in the Athens area order from Johnny’s Seeds. This company sells many hybrid offerings that can outperform heirlooms. Hybrids come from purposeful, selective breeding to provide a specific benefit, such as disease or pest resistance or higher yields. However, seeds saved from a hybrid plant won’t run true—you won’t get the same type of crop again. I choose hybrids over heirlooms for plants I know suffer from specific and widespread disease, like my blight-ridden tomato plants. Heirloom varieties, such as Cherokee Purple, tend to die from blight before they can produce much more than one tomato. Hybrids like Mountain Magic boost a plant’s immunity from blight, and allow my garden to grow a full season’s worth of tomatoes.

Farm conference season is in full swing, and CNG growers are showing up around the country to spread the word about our certification. With nearly 600 certified farms throughout North America, and more being added each month, their efforts are making waves!

Conference outreach is an important way to meet growers in a vibrant regional context. Consider repping CNG at your local farm conference! We’ve got lots of great resources to equip you, and plenty of materials to go around.

Interested? Contact alicevaron@naturallygrown.org and we’ll make a plan!

Thanks to all our 2023/24 Conference Volunteers!

Fat Rabbit Farms and The Firelight Farm are representing CNG at Arkansas Grown 2024 conference! Several farmers are putting Arkansas on the map and committing to growing produce using no synthetic chemicals or GMOs and building vibrant ecosystems

My Mustard Seed presents to a captive audience at Future Harvest in College Park, MD about the health benefits of microgreens, sharing her operation and beginner steps to growing your own!

Big thanks to Shirefolk Farm (pictured) and Crickhollow Farm for a fantastic panel discussion on Raising Broiler Chickens at VABF-SFOP Summit in Roanoke, VA!

The Cedar Chest Farm representing CNG at the VABF-SFOP Summit in Roanoke, VA! There are so many excited farmers in Virginia, working towards an equitable food system– it’s great to be here!

Conference season is in full swing! We’re thankful to have Stephanie from Cobblestone Farm representing CNG out west at the  Western Colorado Soil Health Food and Farm Forum in Montrose, Co. Thank you, Stephanie!

February comes too soon every year. Farmers in warm climates or those growing super long-season flowers and perennials have started their seeds already, but for those of us in cooler regions, seed starting season is right around the corner. This can be a high stress, high consequence time for many growers, as transplant production can make or break a growing season. Ensuring you have a solid seed starting plan, proper infrastructure and the necessary scale-appropriate tools are key to happy seedlings (and happy farmers).

To Direct Seed, Start Seedlings, or Purchase Transplants

First, it’s valuable to consider whether or not you need to (or should) grow your own transplants. Seedling production is a whole different ballgame from field production and folks who are cobbling together a growing space without the proper elements really struggle to produce strong plants. The consequences of weak seedlings will continue throughout the season and is a common cause of reduced yields and high plant stress. Most CNG produce farmers employ a mix of direct seeding and transplanting, depending on what’s appropriate for their operation and experience level.

Evaluate the pros and cons of direct seeding versus transplanting in your context.

Direct Seeding

Pros

  • minimimal root disturbance
  • no transplant shock
  • high density plantings
  • low early season labor
  • seeders can increase efficiency
  • lower upfront cost

Cons

  • challenges with field germination
  • uneven stands
  • thinning/weeding labor

Transplanting

Pros

  • perfect spacing
  • exact plant numbers
  • earlier start
  • season extension
  • paperpot and waterwheel transplanters increase efficiency

Cons

  • greenhouse costs & infrastructure
  • seedling production skills barrier
  • transplant shock
  • planting labor

To get the best of both worlds, some farmers choose to source their transplants off-farm, which can be a great option for new growers and folks without a propagation house. However, sourcing approved plants can be challenging, as all annual transplants need to be CNG/organic. Unless you can order transplants from a certified organic supplier, another useful strategy is to hire a fellow farmer to contract-grow your plants. The grower you hire does not need to be certified organic or even CNG (though maybe you can convince them to join!), but they do need to be growing with ecological production methods and without synthetic inputs. It’s best if you provide the seeds for your contract-grown seedlings and be sure to verify that the grower uses only approved potting mix, fertilizers, and pest control inputs in their growing space.

Purchasing organic or CNG transplants can be expensive, so try contracting out your highest value, longest greenhouse time crops like tomatoes, peppers, lisianthus, etc. and then start your quicker crops (kale, lettuce, zinnias, etc.) yourself, a little later in the season. This way, you are ensuring you have strong, healthy transplants for your highest value crops, but also saving yourself a few weeks of propagation time—reducing heat, light, and labor costs during the cold temps of early spring.

Infrastructure, Tools, & Supplies

Whether you seed everything in the greenhouse or are just starting some early plantings before you can begin direct seeding, your seedlings will need need warmth, light, moisture, protection, ventilation, and attention. 

Folks accomplish this in all kinds of ways—from an indoor system with lights and grow tents, to lean-to greenhouses and climate controlled prop houses, but all strive to provide the ideal seed starting environment.

Stressed seedlings equal leggy, lame plants, get get them started right!

  • seeds
  • trays/soil blocker
  • organic potting mix
  • vermiculite
  • heat mats
  • germination chambers
  • seeding spoons, vacuum seeder
  • plant labels
  • pest/disease control
    • mouse traps, diatomaceous earth, sticky traps
  • irrigation
    • hose, watering wand, mister
  • climate control
  • recordkeeping tools
  • A PLAN!

Common Seedling Production Issues

Damping Off

The silent killer of cotyledons, damping off can be devastating in the propagation house. Damping off is caused by a fungus that thrives in cool, wet conditions. Infected seedlings rot and fail to emerge or have thready, water-logged cotyledons that soon wither and die. Disinfecting trays between uses can help prevent damping off, but proper climate control in your growing space is the key. Be very careful not to overwater germinating seedlings, especially in cool temperatures. Water in the mornings and make sure to reduce greenhouse humidity levels, especially going into the evening. Fans, extra heaters, and precision irrigation can all help to reduce the cool, wet conditions, favored by the damping off fungus.

Leggy Seedlings

Transplants with long, spindly, weak stems are often referred to as “leggy.” This condition is most commonly a function of low light (i.e. you tried to grow tomato seedlings in your window), but can also be cause by overcrowding. These leggy seedlings rarely thrive and often experience severe transplant shock when moved into the field. Avoid growing these skinny weaklings by providing plenty of UV light and space to developing plants.

Sunscald

When seedlings rapidly develop white, brown, or tan areas on the leaf surface, sunscald is the likely culprit. Sunscalded leaves can even feel crispy or look bleached. This condition occurs when seedlings are moved too quickly from low intensity light to high intensity light, often between artificial light and sunlight. Be sure to transition your plants gently, especially if you’ve been growing them inside or have shade cloth over your greenhouse. Sometimes just a layer of lightweight floating row cover for the first few days on the hardening off table can be enough to reduce sunscald risk. Unless the sunscald is very severe, most plants will grow out of the damage, but it can increase transplant stress and affect future yields. 

Relevant CNG Standards

Seed Sourcing

CNG farmers must use organic/CNG seeds unless they are unable to find the particular variety they wish to grow (or an equivalent variety), in the amount they need, after checking with at least three seed companies that regularly supply organic seeds. 

What about seed saving? Farmers are totally encouraged to save their own seed! If a farm is new to CNG and hoping to use seed saved in previous seasons, they must verify that they’ve been growing their seed without prohibited inputs.

Many treated seeds are not allowed. If you want to use treated seeds, be sure the treatment is compliant with CNG or organic standards. Same goes for pelleted seed.

Read through CNG’s Seed Sourcing factsheet for more support.

Potting Mix

Potting mix and all other seedling production inputs must be free from prohibited synthetic ingredients. Be especially careful to check that your potting mix does not contain a synthetic wetting agent or synthetic fertilizers. If the wetting agent is yucca, you’re good to go. For more potting mix help, check out our Inputs Sourcing factsheet.

Sourcing Transplants

Annual transplants must be grown according to CNG standards, except in extreme cases when a variance has been given. Transplants purchased from a big box store or large company must be certified organic. Plants sourced from a local grower, must be produced only with CNG approved seeds and inputs.

Perennial transplants may be purchased from a conventional supplier if an organic equivalent is not available. However, the perennial transplants must be cultivated according to CNG standards for at least one year before the crop can be sold as CNG. So, if you plant conventional raspberry plants this spring, you can’t sell them as CNG raspberries until next spring.

For more help with CNG’s planting stock standards and ideas for sourcing plants, see the Planting Stock factsheet.

Happy Seed Starting!

Big thanks to CNG farmer, Liz Visser of Blandford Nature Center, who co-developed the CNG Farm School class, Seeds and Transplants, part of our Foundations of Crop Production course. Much of the contents of this factsheet came from this collaboratively developed curriculum.

As always please reach out to the certification specialist if you have any questions or need any support: certification@naturallygrown.org. Find more resources on production methods and decoding CNG standards on our Master the Standards page.

We’re here to help!

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Welcome and Introductions

Meet the CNG staff, review Forum objectives, and see who’s in the room.

CNG Today and Our Vision for the Future

Executive Director Alice Varon leads us in an encouraging address– reviewing past, present, and future goals for the organization. 10 minutes.

Transcript here

Increasing Customer Awareness and CNG Membership 

  • Strategies at the Organizational Level

    • Programs Coordinator Erin Worrall shares a review of the new initiatives and programs recently developed by CNG. 20 minutes.
    • View the slideshow
  • Increasing the Value of CNG

    • An interactive, member-sourced brainstorming session of ways we can increase the value of CNG certification. With a strategic focus on increasing customer demand and boosting member success, we gather dozens of new ideas for possible growth initiatives. 45 minutes.
  • Grassroots Engagement from You, the Members

    • Social Media Coordinator Max Chan and Member Services Coordinator Cathy Joly share important steps that every member can take to boost the visibility of their certification, and help expand their local network of CNG farmers. 25 minutes.
    • View the Slideshow

Strategy Breakouts

Members join the Breakout Room of their choosing, to further investigate options for growth and member involvement in the following areas:

  • Social Media

    • An overview of ideas and prompts about the kinds of content members can make for social media, with an emphasis on collaborating with CNG.  Vision cast with members on ways that the organization can make it easy for members to spread the word about certification on social media platforms.
  • Visibility at Markets and Grocers

    • We want to make it easy for members to leverage their certification and show it off! Since the majority of CNG farmers sell at farmers markets, we have focused our efforts market outreach and resource development, but realize there’s value to having greater visibility in grocery stores. In this breakout we summarized what CNG has done so far and discussed what else CNG could develop and how members could be involved in increasing CNG’s visibility at markets and in grocery stores.
    • 30 minutes
    • View the Slideshow
  • Increasing the Value of CNG

    • An opportunity to talk in greater depth about some of the initiatives mentioned during the whiteboard session. Conversation was wide ranging, with particular focus on what it would look like to have regional CNG brands, and the great potential for different types of peer collaborations to help boost member success.
    • 30 minutes.

Farmer-Led Breakouts

An informal time of peer connection between members, led by CNG farmer volunteers.

  • Produce

    • Led by Stanley Chepaitis of Uncle Henry’s Garden, PA. 45 minutes.
  • Flowers

    • Led by Sarah Barrett of Hickory Hill Lavender, VA. 45 minutes.
  • Apiary

    • Led by Jen Mercer of Black Dog Bees and Maple Trees, NH. 45 minutes.
  • Livestock

    • Led by Clay Brady of Foster Brady Farm, GA. 45 minutes.
  • Business Support

    • Led by Sam Otto of The Woven Farmstead, MI. 45 minutes.
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