Produce & Flowers

Happy Day Farmhaus

Owner: Lauren Padovano

W188N13251 Maple Road
Richfield, WI 53076

Web site:

Application Date: 2021-04-24

Applicant Details

Please briefly tell us why you are applying to be part of the Certified Naturally Grown program: *
We would like to show our CSA and Farmer's Market members our commitment to growing naturally and organically. We believe in the importance transparency and we think this certification will help us able to better communicate to others what we belive.
Are you currently third party Certified for your produce operation by any other organization (Organic, Biodynamic, etc)? *
Have you ever been certified in the past? *
Have you ever been denied certification? *
How did you hear about Certified Naturally Grown? *
Through Morningstar Farms in Hartford (eggs/chickens) and MOSES.
How did you learn to farm, and for how long have you been farming for market? What has prepared you to farm successfully according to CNG standards? *

General Farm Information

Farm Acreage you want listed as Certified Naturally GrownTM:
Total Farm Acreage you actually GROW on: *
Number of above acreage that you own: *
Number of above acreage that you lease: *
Do you have other acreage in "Conventional" Agricultural Systems? *
General Listed Acreage Breakdown
Veg Crops:
Fruit Crops:
Other Acreage:
Please check all items you grow and will market as Certified Naturally GrownTM *

Please Specify Any Other Items:
Please check all markets you grow for (this will be displayed on your farm profile to help potential buyers find you). *

Please Specify Other Markets:
We do U-Pick flowers as well

Farmland Management and Practices

Primary Tillage System: *
This is our second season and the land was previously conventional. We use a rototiller currently for our primary tillage. Then we use a raised bed maker to lay plastic mulch rows for things we transplant. We use weed mat to suppress weeds. For areas we direct seed, we hand weed.
Do you use Cover Crops? *
If yes, please list: *
Rye/clover - our lower land where we grow flowers tends to be very wet
Do you use Compost? *
If yes, please note general sources (on farm, purchased complete, local grass clippings, local dairy, etc.): *
Blue Ribbon organics for vegetables.
Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
3" blue ribbon organic for 3'x100' row
Do you use Manure? *
If yes, please note general sources (local dairy, horse farm, etc.): *
This year, we have just introduced horse manure-- our neighbor has 2 horses. We've talked with her about how she feeds the horses, and they primarily graze her 10 acre land. We use the horse manure for our flower beds, winter squash and corn to meet the 90/120 day requirement.
Please list application rates. Give a specific amount or range (for example: one to two tons per acre, ten wheelbarrow loads per 1,000 square feet, or 1-2 inches deep). Do not answer "varies". *
For horse manure, 1" for 3'x100' rows.
What time of year do you apply the manure? *
spring (March/April)
Do you apply any non-composted Manure within 120 days of veg-crop harvesting? *
Please list any other brought in fertility sources that you use (specific rock powders, lime, soybean / alfalfa meal, specific purchased pre-mixes, etc)and how often it's used. If you indicate a name brand product, please also specify the ingredient/s. *
We add compost from Blue Ribbon organics to our vegetable crops, as well as Midwestern Bioag chicken litter and trace minerals (OMRI certified products) per our soil test results which showed our N-P-K levels were extremely low. We apply at the recommended rate from Midwestern Bioag (they reviewed our soil test) at 1000/lb an acre... our rows are 3'x100' long which equates to 6.8lb per row. We add the compost at the beginning of the season (March/April), and broadcast the ammendments at the same time.
Have any chemical fertilizers been applied to the fields you are seeking Certification for in the last three years (36 months)? *
Have any non-acceptable pesticides and/or herbicides been applied to these fields in the last 3 years? *
Do you use Professional Soil Testing services? *
Describe your primary weed problems AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual weed challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
We use weed mat in our walkways, and plastic mulch. We handweed areas we direct seed. We realize plastic mulch is not ideal, however, it really helps us manage our labor costs since currently we are 1 full time staff, and one part time staff. Ideally we'd like to decrease our reliance on plastic mulch and direct sew more, using silage tarps.
Describe your primary insect challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual pest challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
We use row covers for all leafy greens. When vegetables get too large for the hoops we do take off the row covers. In the past, once the row covers come off, we've seen cabbage worms on brussels. We handpick them off, and do this three times. If the infestation still is not managed after the row covers and handpicking, we then use BT at the rate per the instructions. We also have saw seen lots of cucumber beetles and squash bugs. We try to succession plant so that when one crop gets rough with pests, our next crop is doing okay. For winter squash, we will be trying out Surround on the plants. We do not use row covers for cukes and squash due to the size of the veggies. We've seen some colorodo beetles on potato plants, and flea beettle on greens (despite the row covers), and we'll apply DE once if we do see lots of veggie damage. Lastly, if aphids get under the row covers for brassicas, we'll strip down the kale plants to try and get rid of as many aphid colonies as possible. If the row covers and stripping down does not work, we'll apply Neem oil.
Describe your primary disease challenges AND methods of control. Do not answer "none". You MUST indicate either actual disease challenges and/or LIKELY challenges, and you must ALSO indicate how you manage (or would manage) them. If you indicate a product, also specify how often it's used. *
We sometimes see fusarium in our winter squash. We harvest them early if we see it, and then wash them with Sanidate to try and santize the exterior. We've seen some phytophthora on melons (oval shapped watery spots) and may try Oxidate on it this year... but so far it has not taken out a whole crop and we've simply harvested the good ones. Most likely our plan will be to overplant melons in 2 different locations and only harvest the non-infected melons. We've seen some dampening off of beets and brassicas in the Spring (early March) in the greenhouse and use Root Shield. Typically our strategy is to overseed, overplant and succesion plant so that we still have a harvest if disease does occur.
Please list the water source you use for crop irrigation. If source is public river, pond or lake, please note the name: *
our well, via drip
Are there any known contaminants in the irrigation water? *
Are you a maple producer who seeks to certify your sugarbush? *

Seeds, Transplants and Buffers

How do you select your seeds? CNG standards call for growers to make a good faith effort to locate organically grown seeds by contacting at least 3 major suppliers. *
We first try and select all organically produced seed. High Mowing, Johnny's, Osbourne. For flowers, we do use American Meadows due to the ability to buy in such large bulk (for our U-Pick fields) that these suppliers typically don't offer bulk for. Sometimes the seeds are out of stock or go out of stock, and then we turn to other suppliers like West Coast seeds. For roots, like strawberries and asparagus, we reached out to 3 large supplies, but when they did not have organic starts/crowns available we sourced through Jung Seed. We emailed their horticultural group to understand their growing practices, and felt comfortable enough with their response and growing practices to move forward. For flowers and heirloom varieties that are not orgnaic through these suppliers we do source through SeedSavers and Bakers.
Do you purchase or grow using any Genetically Modified seeds? *
Do you use any chemically treated seeds in your operation? *
Do you grow your own transplants? *
Do you purchase potting soil, or do you mix your own on the farm? *
Purchase from Purple Cow
What ingredients does your potting mix contain? If you purchase a mix, please also indicate which product. *
Purple Cow Organic Seed Starter Mix
Are all of your transplants grown according to CNG standards, without synthetic fertilizers or wetting agents? *
If any transplants are not grown according to CNG standards, please list them here. (If they all are, put "N/A".) This produce may not be marketed as Certified Naturally Grown. *
Do you purchase any transplants from outside sources? *
From which sources do you buy transplants? *
West Star Organics in Madison- we purchase peppers and tomatoes and a few herbs (lavender and thyme)- our propagation house is currently too small to grow all the tomatoes and peppers we need. We hope in about 2 years to phase out of purchasing transplants from West Star Organics.
How have you confirmed with your supplier that the transplants are grown without synthetic fertilizers or wetting agents? *
Please list any bought-in transplants not grown according to CNG standards. This produce may not be sold as Certified Naturally Grown (except, in the case of perennials, after twelve months of CNG cultivation). *
see comment about strawberries and asapargus above from Jung Seed. Albion Organic was not available at these 3 suppliers this year.
Chemical/Spray Drift and Buffers:
Is there any likelihood of Chemical/Spray drift contamination of your fields? *
If yes, please state the source (conventional farm field, golf course, etc.)and any details you can provide (type of pesticide, fertilizer, herbicide used, and/or what used for.) *
We boarder to conventional land. We are in direct communication with the farmer and have "do not spray" signs on the property. We monitor his equipment as he sprays to make sure he does not come close our our land. They grow corn/soybeans. We have a 20' buffer strip between our and their land as well. They do not arial spray.
Do you have an adequate buffer to protect yourself from potential contamination? *
Please describe your buffer. Be as specific as possible. On all sides, how far is it from your crops to the next closest use (road, conventional crop, residential yard)? Be sure to specify what is grown on neighboring land that is in agricultural use. For example: To the north and east, a wooded area of at least 100 yards separates us from the neighbor's corn fields, to the south is a fallow field at least 100 yards deep separating us from the road, and to the west about 60 feet separates our crops from a field where conventional corn and soybeans are grown. *
Our land is an "L" shape. the top of the "L' and eastern side touch the conventional land. We have a 20' buffer strip along these edges, of non-mow grass seed (Prarie Moon seed). The west is the 10 acre horse neighbor (she has 2 horses, so not exactly a farm per say). She does not use any contaminates. To the south and remainder of the L is our house and the road. Along these areas we have a 20' wildflower area, we planted last year (from Prarie Moon seed). This wildflower area extends along the west as well, between the neighbors horse farm.


Please indicate your agreement with the following statements by checking the boxes.
I will not label, or in any way lead consumers to believe that produce not raised in accord with CNG standards is Certified Naturally GrownTM. *
I understand that I have to complete at least one (and hopefully more) Certification Inspection(s) of another farm in my area each year, and that the inspection will NOT be of the same farmer that inspected me. *
I have reviewed the Certified Naturally Grown certification standards, I understand them, and I will abide by them. I understand that if I have any questions I may contact CNG for clarification. *
You may use this space to tell us anything else you think we should know about your farm:
This is our third year. The last convention season growing was the 2018 growing season, with harvest taking place Oct 2018. We planted a pea/oat cover crop following this and then grew using the practices we outlined starting March of 2020.